I Make 600 Pies Each Thanksgiving—Here’s What I’ve Learned Along the Way.

The minute peaches are elbowed out of the way by apples at the farmers’ market, my summer reverie is interrupted by thoughts of Thanksgiving. As a professional pie baker who discreetly waves goodbye to each pie as it leaves the bakery, I take my job seriously. Most years, more than 600 pies cross the baker’s bench on the day before Thanksgiving. This year, the approaching holiday season feels as upended as a tarte tatin. My guess is that pie sales will be brisk despite the uncertainty of gathering. One thing remains constant: Pie makes us feel better.

Except for July 4 (which this baker dubs Thanksgiving Junior) pie distinguishes Thanksgiving from all other holidays. According to a 2019 survey from The Harris Poll, 94 percent of Americans conclude their Thanksgiving meal with pie. No wonder even the most casual of bakers are prompted to reach for their rolling pins and dimpled pie plates. Thanksgiving has a way of sneaking up on us, long before our stash of leftover Halloween candy has been depleted.

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